Saturday 23rd July to Thursday 28th July
By Jenny.
Norseman to Home
So luckily, Nicole and Barry had their reverse cycle aircon on, as it was bloody freezing. After we had warmed up, and caught up on the goss, Nicole and I went to take care of the town Doctors ducks. He keeps them for food, but they are so cute, and grubby poop machines. Nicole sorted out their swimming hole, while I chatted to the student doctor staying in the doctors house.
The Docs Ducks.....Nicole has named them.....Kennard....All of them.
At least dinner will taste good after duck poop hey Nicole?
Nicole cooked us an amazing roast (pork, not duck) with desert, and we had a good catch up. Little dog, Bayley, was very cute, and we threatened to steal him.
After a delicious breakfast, Barry went off to man the Museum, and we did some washing, before heading down to check it out. It is actually pretty cool, and definitely worth the gold coin donation.
Norseman Museum.....lots of cool relics......and Barry.
I have actually used one of these machines, mum still has it.
Bicycles, bicycles everywhere. There is a long history of cycling in Norseman. What? True!
Down at the local IGA, we did a bit of food shopping, as Nicole's Grandad and Uncle were going to be dropping in. Nicole busied herself making Carrot cake for the family, and we just relaxed. Jim (Grandad), and Laurie (Uncle) arrived around 3pm, we had lunch and chatted, and checked out their travelling rig.....hooley Dooley, really?
Nicole.....the circus is in town.....oh, it's your Grandad!
Laurie and Jim.....these guys are old school Aussie hard core blokes. Lots of laughs.
Jim is 87, and drives his old Hyundai Sonata, while Laurie (in his 60's) drives the 4WD tip truck with Jim's little caravan on the back. At night, Laurie sleeps in the truck cab, and Jim climbs a rickety old ladder to the van and sleeps in there. He isn't allowed down until Laurie is awake and can make sure he finds his footing on the ladder. Amazing guys, and very interesting chats.
Check out that old rusty ladder.......it's safe to come out Jim, Laurie is ready.
Barry, Will and Bayley took a dive along the telegraph track to Lake Dundas.
Stopping by to say hi to some random giant goat.......Bayley didn't like him much.....scary!
Some old mine relics they found on their drive. Amazing what you can find out here.
On Monday morning, Nicole was the first poor sole to be forced out into the icy morning, having to start work before 7am. Then Barry, to take puppy Bayley for his frosty morning walk, then Jim and Laurie, who ate their Nuts and Berries, had a coffee then hit the long road to Central Queenslandish. We took our sweet time, hoping for it to warm up a bit. It didn't, so we chugged off at Morning tea time.
Nonuts, you crazy giraffe, what do you think you are doing?
The road to Kalgoorlie, was busier, with caravans, trucks and mine vehicles, but having had some good rainfall, it was quite scenic. Kalgoorlie, was just how we left it, in the late 80's, maybe a few less people, and a bit run down. Lots of shops closed down and for lease, and looking to need some love.
Big city Kalgoorlie.......still looks the same as 1989.....mostly.
The major historical intersection of Hannan street and Maritana street. A pub on each corner.
The other side of that corner....
We didn't waist too much time in Kal, just long enough to do some shopping, be thankful we didn't still live there, and fuel up. Then we were on the road north towards Menzies. Oh, not before noticing a note left under our windscreen wiper......."Hi Will and Jen"......hhmmmm, who could that have been?
Who could this be from.....
Heading to Goongarrie Station, about 40kms south of Menzies, we are travelling on a bit of the Goldfields Highway we have used many, many times before, while living and working around Kal. So there is no doubt, what so ever, that we NEED to stop and have "one", at The BroadArrow Pub.
The old Broad Arrow! Beers, pool, bad behaviour........all in this pub......
It is not as nice as we remember it, as it is now decorated with graffiti, wall to wall. But we have a beer, share a burger, a few memories, and carry on our journey north. Thankfully, it is sunny, which warms us a little, through the windscreen, while the cold air gusts in through the pedal holes on the drivers side......It's ok Dixy, we know you are getting on, we don't really mind.
While driving along, passing more mines, great shrub lands, and lots of mine vehicles, we get a message from our friend Darren, who tells us the note in Kal was from Gayle and Martin, his sister and brother in-law. Huh, what a small world. Thanks guys, it was a fun puzzle to try and figure, we did not guess you.
Goongarrie Station was easy to get to, and is now owned by the Department of Conservation and Land Management, so is pretty much abandoned. Volunteers man it, and take your camping fees, which are $10 per person, per day. You can sleep in the homestead, or the shearers quarters, or camp around the station in a few designated spots. We were the only ones there, so we picked the homestead, and parked Dixy in the driveway, and had the use of the homestead facilities.
What's out here Jen? How the hell would I know Will? Let's go find out....
All this to ourselves. Looks like home.....
How bad is it Will? What, flushing, clean and toilet paper?
There was plenty of wood to light the chip heater for hot showers, and have a good fire to cook our dinner. There was flushing toilets, and a kitchen sink. It was a really great spot, with a few very friendly Pied Butcher birds, who really wanted to share our dinner with us. They were very cheeky, and sat and chatted with us until dark.
It was a cold night, with a clear sky, showing us the absolute stunning array of stars, planets and satellites in our system. We used an app on the iPad, called Star Walk, which uses the camera and GPS to show you different constellations, stars and planets. It was cool. When we woke up, the sun was out, so we opened the door and let the warmth in. Next minute, two of the Butcher birds decided to say good morning, and proceeded to come right in and have a good sticky beak (pun intended) around.
Morning! Time to get up already? Ten more minutes?
What are you two chatting about? Watch out for Nonuts, he is not to be trusted...
Once fed and packed up, we had a great explore around the station, and did the easy 3km walk trail over the granite water catchment area and bush. I actually got warm enough to take off one layer.......lets keep heading north.
On towards Menzies, where we didn't stop, as there isn't a great deal there, and to Leonora. There is a ghost town there, called Gwalia, that we both wanted to check out. We did consider detouring from Menzies to Lake Ballard, to check out the sculptures, but it was over 50kms, so that will be for another trip. So we made it to Gwalia for lunch, and found ourselves a bench and table in the sun, made some Chorizo, cheese and tomato rolls, and relaxed. That is when I realised that there were many cool Pokemon to be caught here. Geodude, Machop, Sandshrew and Sandslah. And there were Pokestops and a gym. Even more reason to wander around and explore the ghost town.
Welcome to Gwalia! A nice bench and table for lunch........
Old car, old garage....
The houses still have furniture.......really cool.
The old Gwalia pub. It's on the mining lease, so is just sitting there unused. Still in good nick.
There is also a new museum, up on the hill looking into the pit, which is still being mined today, with St Barbara operating a decline, underground operation. The museum is free, or you can make a donation, which was a surprise, and it was very interesting. Not too big, and with good information. We left a donation, and gave some positive feedback. Worth going to.
The new museum. Still lots of work to do, but still worth a look.
The old pit, still being worked. Can you see the tiny trucks!
The largest wooden head frame remaining in the world. Made from Oregon Pine.
Hard to imagine riding a bike out here in the old days........
One of two viewing platforms, still amazing to see what we do....
All Pokemon caught, we headed on north, after topping up our fuel. We weren't going to get to Leinster, and we didn't really want to stay there anyway, so we made use of Wikicamps, on Will's phone, and decided on a spot, called Sullivan's Creek. The reviews were alright, and there weren't many other options. When we found it and pulled in, our faces dropped. It was literally right next to the highway, with truck after truck barrelling past. Oh poop. While we sat there contemplating, Will decided to have a little walk, and see if we could get around the fence, and find a better spot. Well thank you very much, we could. So we did, and found a great clearing, away from the road, with plenty of good wood for a fire, and a relaxing evening.
Sullivan Creek, Edward Sullivan was the first man to find gold in Leonora. He worked his lease with four other mates. After travelling to Kal and going on a bender for five days, leaving his mates to work, they did the Aussie thing and teased him and bagged him out, to which he grabbed his revolver, walked into the bush here, and shot himself........that showed them!
Cooking up our curry while it's still light.
Now the fire is raging, and warm, and Nonuts is into our Port......
Aside from Nonuts getting into our Port, and finishing our supply, it was another super bush camp. After getting our Thai Red Lamb curry cooked, Will suped up our fire for warmth on the outside, and we poured some Port (before Nonuts got to it) to warm our insides. Again, we were mesmerised by the amazing night skies, and changing colours of the flames in the fire. Gotta love this shit!
In the morning we made coffee, ate our nuts and berries, packed up and choofed off again. It was another bloody cold morning, with an icy breeze blowing. We headed into Leinster for a few supplies, Pokemon, and a look. Neither of us have been here. Not much to it, it is just a mining town, whose population varies with the mining climate. Currently starting to increase after a couple of quiet years, we were told.
Getting out of the way of these big boys........
Awesome granite formations outside of Leinster.
Time to change direction, and now we're heading west again, towards Sandstone. But first, another ghost town, Agnew. Will has been there before, and remembers the pub open, and selling fuel. Not anymore! It is a sad and lonely sight. Over grown, run down, and surprise, surprise, no fuel. There is still mining going on nearby, but with Leinster 20kms away, the town isn't needed. We plod on to Sandstone.
Agnew, another poor deserted mining town.
No beer, no fuel......
The pub, shop, servo.......
It was a very pleasant drive, good weather, tailwind, and some wonderful scenery. We spotted some 5 Wedge Tailed Eagles all together on some poor dead animal on the side of the road. We weren't quick enough to capture them on camera, but it was cool. Hardly any traffic, and amazingly, a good sealed road.
Sandstone was a very different place to what we remembered. Both of us had been there before, many years ago, and at that time, it was all rough dirt roads, in and out of town. Now, it is clean, tidy, and all sealed roads. We parked up in the council caravan park, which had new amenities, and was extremely well kept. It was also cheap, at $16.50 for an unpowered site. After setting up the van, and our new awning, for the first time, we walked to the pub, for a few drinks and dinner. It's a great little old pub, the food was delicious, and we chatted to some nice people who had just come across the Anne Beadell Hwy, which goes from Coober Pedy to Laverton. Two of them in their 70's, and tenting it. Good work people.
Our first time using the ARB awning. Super easy to erect.
Getting ready for bed after a great night at the old pub.
Great little pub, lots of character, memorabilia and good tucker.
After getting some fuel from the council run, self serve pumps, we headed off to find London Bridge. We knew it was around here somewhere, but never looked before. It was 2kms out of town, and on the way we stumbled on the Old Brewery. It is a cave they used to brew beer in. Huh, how cool. Then we found the bridge. It was pretty amazing, and didn't look like it had changed much over the years.
Pre-paid, shire operated fuel stop.
Never too early in the day to check out an old brewery...... I don't know that Dixy should be drinking.
She's really keen for a drink.....no luck today Dixy.......nothing going on today.
London Bridge! Wow, they used to use camel trains and horse drawn carts on this thing.....
Photo bombed.......
Off we go, in search of some early wild flowers, towards Mt Magnet. We've been to Magnet plenty of times, having lived in nearby (200kms away) Meekatharra for a few years, and Tom Price for several. So we weren't surprised that it hasn't really changed. It wasn't pleasant, and the only open one, of 3 pubs, The Grand, was far from it. Beer came in stubbies or cans, taken out of dingey old eski's along the filthy back wall, the only food pre-made beef and gravy rolls heated in the microwave.....seriously? You can't smash together a fresh Sanger or burger?
No Pokemon either, so no point hanging around. This next stretch of road was awesome. We saw emus, Roos, goats, sheep, and flowers. It just started with a few small patches, then as we started to pay more attention, more and more, until it looked like fields of snow. The smell was incredible.
What's that Nonuts? You want a photo shoot with wild flowers...... I don't know about that!
Mt Magnet.......hmmm.....could do better.....
OMG......look at all these beauties.......more than I thought we'd see this early....
At one spot, Nonuts decided to get his model on, and we just had to frolic in the flowers. Mostly white, it was great to find a patch of yellows, and some tiny mauve ones. What a fantastic drive through to Yalgoo, where we parked up in the council caravan park. Another neat, tidy town making good use of the Royalties For Regions funding. Lots of historical buildings, a museum, and Rec center. We cooked dinner at the newly built camp kitchen, with some prospectors from Rockingham, and a few grey nomads. An interesting crew.
Seriously Nonuts, you are a tool....
Nice entry, Yalgoo.....
Neat little caravan park. Great facilities.
The old water tank along the old rail line from Mt Magnet. Just out of Yalgoo.
The journey so far!
A much warmer night, and we woke up in the sunshine. At last, I'm not freezing. We cooked some egg and bacon brekkie wraps, on the camp kitchen BBQ, chatted to our prospecting neighbours, before heading off towards my birth town, of Morawa. This was another great drive full of flowers, this time mostly yellow, and lovely, quiet roads.
From white to yellow......just amazing.......hoping for some pink.
McCarthys Well....
Bloody beautiful day, flowers, sun and a Kombi....
The chimneys always last.....
In Morawa, we searched out my old family home, and discovered it fixed up and lived in. Some good memories, funny stories, and we were back heading South towards Moora. We passed through Three Springs & Carnamah where Will's mum grew up, and had a brief stop for supplies and lunch. We also used this stop to look for a spot to camp, on Wikicamps, as it was going to be our last chance before home. It is slim pickings, with so many little farming towns from here on, but we agree to check out one at Jingemia Cave, between Coorow and Watheroo. It is a day use spot only, but we thought we'd try our luck anyway.
Let's check it out......been a while since the last visit.
My early childhood home......a few mods, but still much the same.
Another new entry sign...
As we headed south, the weather was changing, the skies were darkening, and the wind became cross winds. Dixybus was not easy to handle in these conditions, so I was pretty keen to find the spot, and crossed my fingers it would be OK. It was. Actually, it was pretty cool. It had a rough long drop toilet, but definitely not the worst I've dealt with. It was in amongst a lovely patch of reserved natural woodlands, and even though the weather was crappy, we had a nice cosy night. No fire, but you can't have everything.
Don't know if we should trust the navigator........Nonuts!
No fire, but the other facilities are not bad....pity about the weather...
Holed up in the van.......cosy and dry!
The morning was cold, but sunny, and we packed up before taking a walk to the cave itself, which was a little surprise. It was a natural formation, small and hidden, but was discovered in the early 1900's and mined for guano (bat/bird poop). It was used as a cheaper fertiliser for farming. What's wrong with cow or sheep poop? Anyway, I walked the walk around the outside, and was totally blown away by the view from the highest point. Which wasn't that high! Will, with the good knees, went down the tricky decline to see the actual cave.
A very relaxing and interesting start, then we continue on to Moora. We paused here to have a warming coffee and muffin, while wasting time. We are too early for the bottle shop, we need to get a couple of nice bottles of wine for Aunty Helen and Uncle Colin, who are putting us up tonight in Gingin.
Not very big, but interesting.
And look at that view....
The actual cave where they mined the Bat poop.
The workings....
Moora, the pub.........
After a lovely coffee, catching a few rare Pokemon, and a nice wander down the Main Street, we purchased our wine, a couple of newspapers (on request from Helen), and slowly headed off in a westerly direction, towards Dandaragan, then Regan's Ford. We stopped here for our last fuel top up, and chatted to a lovely lady about her past Kombi adventures. Everyone has a Kombi story, and they are all cool. Lastly, we take Orange Springs Road to Cowalla road, and arrive at our final nights stop right on lunch time.
And Pokemon........ha ha ha....so funny! Gotta catch em all!
In the park at Moora, I just liked it!
We've trashed our house, but it's our last day so it's ok.
Helen and Colin, ex-school teachers, have a farm, growing Mangoes, Mandarines and Limes. They are in their early 70's, and had no experience when they started. They listened, read, learned, and worked hard over the last 15 plus years, and now have a successful, money making property. They still work pretty hard, and are amazingly inspirational, and they always look after us. Helen is a fantastic host, making us delicious food, and Colin helps us enjoy good red wine, and is generous with sharing his knowledge. They are wonderful people, and we always enjoy our visits. This was no exception.
Will helped Colin clean up some wood cuttings, payment for food and board.
Helen and Colin! Taking care of some other pests! Not us, some nasty European wasps. In the bug killer container of all places.
Our final day started with picking some fruit, helping with a few jobs, and a long chatty breakfast. Finally, with the wind picking up, it was time to hit the busy roads for home. Not as fun as the outback roads. Hitting the freeway, the weather was going bad. The wind was buffeting Dixy pretty badly, and Will was working hard to stay in his lane. I had a lovely relaxing journey.
Close to Safety Bay road, we started to notice some stuttering, and power loss. We weren't sure if it was just the wind, it was up to 40km/hr now, and getting worse. So we pulled into the new servo, and had a check of the vitals, a leg stretch, and some lunch. Nothing seemed to be out of order, so we carried on to home. There was more spluttering and power fluctuating, but we got home and hosed safely. Another great little adventure, and Will can check on Dixybus tomorrow. She'll be right, hey?
The final road home.
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