Circles and Dead Ends

07/06/15 Canterbury to Rochester 76kms

Mohammed and Marzi, made us the most fantastic breakfast. Scrambled egg, bacon, sausage, beans, tomato, cereal, toast, juice, tea and coffee. They refilled out plates and drinks as we liked, and it was a really enjoyable experience. It was interesting to find out they had both stayed at this guest house as students, and returned to visit the previous owners each year after that. When the previous owners were ready to retire, they asked Mohammed and Marzi if they were interested and they were. That was over 14yrs ago. 

The old "kitchen" behind me, now part of the dining room.

Our lovely hosts, we recommend Tudor House B&B.

We left there by 9:30am, and headed for the tourist info centre to see if they had a map for the NCN1, but it didn't open until 10am, so we went off to the Vodafone shop to try get connected, but they didn't open till 10:30am. Poop, but at least they would open on a Sunday. We thought we would check out the cathedral, but as they had services until 12:30pm, we missed that as well. So we found somewhere, had a coffee, then went for round two at the shops.

Just off the High Street and all the action.

One of the cool little pubs. 

On our way out of town. End of the High street.

Finally we left Canterbury by 11am, on the NCN1, without a good map, but with mobile active. It was a really great ride up to Whitstable, with plenty of people out enjoying the beautiful warm day, and the fantastic track. It is only about 10kms, and lots of people will walk it, then catch a train back.

Looking back over Canterbury from the top of the hill. Stunning.

Beautiful riding between Canterbury and Whitstable.

From there, we turned westish, through to Sittingbourne. This was another great section, on small roads, along the seaside, before entering the town. We stopped at a roadside stall, and bought some beautiful fresh strawberries and cherries to snack on. We ate them as we rode along. So far we were doing it easy.

Fresh fruit on a warm sunny day is the bomb.

There was one section, near Faversham, where we rode past the sewerage treatment plant, and oh my god, how bad was the smell. Way worse than the cow poo smell in Europe. We held our breathe, and tried to get past quick. There were swarms of midgies or gnat type bugs, flying in our faces, up our noses, poo bugs, ugh! Whose idea was it to put the national cycle route right there?

These are a great idea???  For what I don't know.

Sometimes it is good to be a bit smaller....

In Sittingbourne, someone had been messing with the signage, and we lost the route again. Back to following Davo, which as usual, lead us to a couple of frustrating (infuriating) moments. We did a couple of extra kms getting out of Sittingbourne, before finding the NCN1 again near Rainham, then as we got close to Rochester, we had a choice to follow Davo down to the river, then along it to Rochester, or carry on, on the cycle path (along the busy road). We chose Davo, Wrong!

One of the better little back roads. 

At first it seemed great, as we had a big downhill roll, through some rough looking areas, but at the bottom, there were roadworks, and it was difficult negotiating them. Davo took us around in a giant circle, we literally came out where we started, then into a housing estate, that only had one way in and out. So back we go to the roadworks (another 3kms for nothing), and then, And Then, the stupid GPS put us on the motorway! Holy crap! Scary, not to mention we're not allowed on it. We don't want to be here, with cars zooming by at break neck speeds. We spotted a sign that showed all the types of vehicles that are not allowed on the motorway, and that they could get off in 100 yards. Fucking super, we waited for a break in the traffic, then pedalled like crazy and got off. 

We stopped, swore at Davo, checked the iPad and chose a route back to Rochester. Along a busy road, but with a cycle path, and of course a big slow hill. It wasn't long before we could see where we wanted to be, and then Davo directed us to ride along a nice path along the river. Ok, seems cool. It wasn't! Who makes a river path that is a dead end? It went for about 2kms to nowhere. By this stage, we'd done over 70kms, and had had enough. So back we go, past Snoop Dog, roller dancing by himself, and the stupid exercise equipment and find the road into Rochester by ourselves.

I got this, I have done a little riding...

Betty, you are heaps easier to ride...

Is that a hotel, how do we get there?

Somehow, we got to The High street, and found The Kings Head pub with a room. Because of Davo, we'd missed dinner by half an hour here, so after showers walked down a bit to the Crown, and had some dinner, while watching a massive fire burn right near the path we'd ridden along. Apparently a plastics factory. Nothing to do with us or Davo!

Nice decor hey? 

                                      

                                           Phew, got out of there just in time.

What a great view, we have been so lucky with views lately.

Scenes from Oliver Twist,

A little bit spooky, but cool.

So Rochester is the home of Charles Dickens, has a nice cathedral, and a castle (which is right outside our window, score). Our hotel has murals on the walls depicting scenes from Oliver Twist (the rooms are named after characters, ours is Pip) and the High street is filled with shops with names relating to Charles Dickens. Actually a very nice place, even after the circles and dead ends.

Out of My Zone

06/06/15 Kingsdown to Canterbury, 42kms

After a great pub meal, and a few drinks, we should have had a good sleep, but the campground was busy with weekenders, and a couple of groups of young guys carried on until the sun came up. Luckily, I had my ear plugs, which helped me get some sleep.

We got up and going pretty early, and followed the NCN1 through Wolmer, Deal and Sandwich. Who names these places. We stopped at a little sea side cafe for some breakfast, which was awesome. There were heaps of people out walking dogs, as it was sunny and warm. There was a breeze, but not too bad.

Leaving Kingsdown on the NCN1 route.

Oooh, real brekkie, what to have?

Typical English seaside view.

What the hell is this on my bike? Davo? How did you get here?

Will had decided it was my turn to have Davo GPS, and lead the way. He wanted me to see how difficult it was reading Davo's stupid squiggles. Gees, the pressure. The navigating I think I can handle, but being out front, well that just doesn't feel right.

Luckily for me, the first half of the day was pretty straight forward, and the GPS was following the NCN1 nicely. An easy ride along the seaside, until we came to Sandwich. It was a busy little place, with a car show and some Saturday markets, and the old town narrow, one way streets.

So far so good, I'm looking for signs rather than at Davo.

Nice, they put on an old car show for us. We live old cars.

I had a couple of issues reading Davo, but we managed to get through there. On the other side, Davo directed us off the route, along some gravel track, along a dingey old waterway, where a whole lot of gyppo boat people were living, and where the track ended in a paddock full of sheep. Huh! One of the "residents" told us the track along the creek used to be good, but was now washed away, and it was about 8 miles long. Nope, too hard, we turned back and followed the major road until Davo recalculated.

What The Bloody Hell? I don't think so, mate!

That was about 5km we did for nothing, and now we'd lost the NCN1. So we followed Davo's route, which was on some back roads, and there was quite a bit of traffic. The roads were rough on the edges, with lots of hills (not huge ones, just slow going) and being in the front, I was feeling the pressure of getting up them quickly so I didn't slow Will down.

Nice little back road, can't see much, but it was good.

Will, on the other hand was thoroughly enjoying himself at the back, just chilling out and checking out the views, just like I should be.  I did get a bit stressed out, and didn't enjoy the riding that much. It was a good day, and it wasn't a huge ride, but I was out of my zone, I like following Will, and trying to keep up. My job is to plan the route, research our destinations, and double check Davo, not lead the way and direct us. That is Will's job.

Oh, yay, my job for today is almost done.

But, we arrived in Canterbury in time to have a late lunch/early dinner, and look for somewhere to stay. We'd passed the campground, a few kays out of town, so we could always go back if necessary, but we don't like doing that.  The town was packed. People everywhere. We walked our bikes through the high street, and finally found a pub where we could park our bikes, sit (and keep an eye on them), eat and check out accommodation. They had no Wifi, so good old Maps.me showed us a couple of guest houses close by.

Old town lanes full of people and shops.

The High street. Wow it is busy.

We walked around the corner to Tudor Lodge B&B, and they had one room left. No shower, only a bath, as the tank is at the same level and the water pressure is not good enough. It is over 400yrs old, this house, and very cute. Mohammad and his wife, Marzi own it, they are a lovely couple, and work very hard.

We got sorted, and just lazed around in bed reading and resting, and having a bath. Not to mention the view from our window was of the amazing Canterbury cathedral. We didn't have dinner, and we went to bed at a reasonable time. The town was busy and noisy, but it didn't bother us too much.

Will is feeling like a giant again.

Our gorgeous view. Awesome cathedral.

Au Revoir Croissants!

05/06/15 Day 80, Calais (France) to Dover (UK) to Kingsdown, 19kms.

Will set the alarm, so he could retrieve our clean laundry out of the dryer from the Laundromat, it was suppose to open at 7am, but it bloody wasn't. He came back for breakfast then tried again, it was just after 9am and open.

By the time Will had run his "save our clothes" mission, he was a bit stressed and anxious as we weren't sure exactly where we had to go or how long it would take us. Davo GPS would not locate the Car Ferry Port, even though he had made us ride right past it yesterday. So we just headed back the way we came in, and followed the directions the receptionist had tried to give us. It wasn't that hard, or far, and we had just under one hour to complete the check in.

Will was riding along, we came to the point we had to go left, and it was a huge complicated round about with heaps of big trucks etc heading around to go on the ferries. We decided we could just cut across the road and get on the bike path to take us to the passport control area. Simple! So Will checks and zips across, bunny hops his bike up the big kerb, and carries on. I am feeling rushed and think I need to try to repeat Will's manoeuvre (God knows why, we had heaps of time to get 500 meters) and as I approach the big kerb, a mid sized truck came around the bend towards me. I totally miss judged my bunny hop, smacked into the kerb and crashed in spectacular fashion in front of the truck, who narrowly avoided me, and sped off. 

This was a big crash, as far as mine go, I smacked my elbow into the kerb, right on the funny bone, which made it useless in helping me get up and off the road. Will did come running, and dragged Betty off me and helped me get off the road. I felt so stupid, I didn't have to try that, I could have waited and taken my time to carefully lift the Nike up the kerb. Now I have a bruised and bleeding elbow, and several other bruises. I was really angry, and blamed Will for not thinking about me when rushing at these things. But really, I'm the one in control of my bike and I can ride my own ride. Poor Will, he tried to help me and get me cleaned up, but I was very upset. We rode to the check in in silence.

Line 20, first inline. Too easy.

Kids just waiting for their boat ride.

It was super easy, we just lined up with the cars, and waited our turn. The French passport guys didn't care and waved us straight through to two English passport guys in a booth, 10 meters away. They asked us the usual questions, then directed us to the P&O check in lines a couple of hundred meters further. We'd pre-booked, so gave the details, got our tags and directions, then road around to our lane and we were first in line. We were the first ones to board and the last ones to disembark the Ferry, the trip across took 1.5 hours.

The Pride of Kent, our ship.

The Ferries don't look that big, but look what comes off them.

Time to get off this boat and into the "Mother Land".

Follow the red line to get out of the maze. And in England it rains. It is warm and wet.

Once in Dover we just merrily rode out of the Terminal & then up a very steep hill until we were on top of the White Cliffs. From there it was a very easy ride to the Campground at Kingsdown. Nice and spacious with views over the English Channel. Unfortunately we haven't had time to restock our food and fuel supply so it looks like we'll have to eat at one of the four English Pubs in town, about a 10 minute walk away.

Now that's a castle. Had to ride up a 13% gradient to get this view.

View of the Dover Port from on top of the White Cliffs.

This is a bicycle route. Whose bright invention were these stupid gates?

Sunshine and rain and a downhill run on the National Cycle Network 1. Dover to London.

The beach at Kingsdown.

We had awesome steak pie and veg at the pub, now back to our little tent down there.

After the iffy start to the day, it was a pretty good one. Some bruises, some lessons, and another country. But now I find myself riding on the wrong side of the paths, and looking the wrong way. Very funny, we got used to the right hand side pretty quickly. Now to flip the mind back again.

Smashed It Out

04/06/15 Ypres-Belgium to Calais-France 106kms

It wasn't a bad night in the hikers hut, away from the noisy tent area, and we woke up feeling both excited and a little sad. Our last day riding in Europe, after 78 days. It is really hard to believe we have been here that long. So Mother Nature had sorted out an awesome weather day, not too hot, not too cold, sun shine, and the little breeze there was, was behind or side on. 

We started the day with the big biker group, who were off on some war trail together, and we both felt like it would have been great to be a part of it. But instead, we took photos of them, and said "see ya later", and sped off at 20kms/hr..ha ha ha.

Black Betty wants to be a motorbike too....

They are just as noisy as their motorbikes....

Once on the other side of Ypres, we were on the Ieperleekanaal, which then led into the Ijzer river. It was easy fun riding, and as Will had had his super muesli for breakfast (I think it must have performance enhancing substances in it), he was out front setting a cracking pace. Maybe he is finally sick of me and trying to ditch me. I'm having none of that, and managed to keep up. I had to drink on the move, and wasn't allowed a pit stop for 20kms. (I was too scared to ask, so just waited for Will to need one). 

Look at that sunshine. What a great day to ride.

Along the Ijzer, we were on a RAVel, and sheep, big brown ones dropping wool, were everywhere. One even tried to chase me, it was a big one too. Will and I are calling this path, the poo path, it was covered in shit, and there was no dodging it. There were bugs flying all over the place too, poo bugs, so not much conversation over that section. Still keeping up the cracking pace though.

No time for stopping and wondering what, or why, just look on the go.

I mentioned to Will a possible need for another stop for food, and he yelled back to me, from way in front,  " in another 10kms, then we'll be halfway". Bloody hell, we're at 40kms now. But luckily, about 5kms on, we came to Bergues, and as we slowed to a gentle roll, due to a herd of geese all over the road (I know, I know, a flock, but they are more like cows). They were reeking havoc on the road, so we decided to sit on the park bench and watch them while eating our lunch.

Check em out, cars, people, all stopped for the geese.

Task master Will, who really was on a mission today, only gave us half an hour break, and as we'd finished our food, and the geese had parked up for a rest, he got us moving early. Gee willickers man! But, the road followed the Canal de Bergues towards Dunkirk, then west towards Gravelines and Calais. It really was an amazing ride, through farms, and along the waterways. The sun continued to shine, and the breeze picked up, but very rarely did we turn into it. Thank goodness.

Still drinking on the go, just keep pedalling.

Around Gravelines, Davo GPS directed us to the seaside, and told us to ride through the dunes, "It is very scenic", he said, but we said " Piss off, we've just ridden 85kms, and that is too much work". And then we redirected ourselves onto the minor road, and with Davo beeping his butt off, we continued speeding towards Calais. 

Yeah, Naaa! Doesn't really look like a fun ride.

Beautiful field of Poppies. Never get boring.

By the time we'd reached the outskirts of the Port city, Davo had recovered from his tantrum, and put us on a cycle path, off the road. Goodo, we thought, until we realised we'd ridden into the middle of a rubbish dump. Seriously! The only way out (not going back) was over a ditch, with logs in it and up a steep bank. Fuck! Will, and his performance enhanced self, mumbled some offensive words and almost lifted each hike single handedly over the ditch, and then left me to push Betty up the bank, while he carried on.

Seriously Davo, this is not funny!

That looks like fun after 100kms of riding.....shit!

We emerged at a massive round about, which thankfully had a cycle path. We stopped, reset Davo for our hotel, and then followed him into the main square. The Hotel was on one of the corners, easy, and we checked in, asked about a laundry (just on the opposite side of the square, awesome), showered and took all our belongings over to do washing. Got it all going, so we found a bar close by for dinner and settled in. After the washing time, I went back and got it into the dryer, then back to the bar.

The main square in Calais. Where are all the people?

Bikes parked up awaiting check in at our hotel.

Another great cathedral/church. They're all different.

We ordered dinner, Will went back to check the washing, and put it on a bit longer to dry. We ate dinner, then just after 8pm went back to collect our washing. When we got there, the door was like locked. What the hell, it is supposed to be open. We pushed a little button near the door, nothing. Shit, we could see our clothes in the dryer, waving at us, but we couldn't get them. We had to leave them there. They were all I have except what I'm wearing! 

You all know me by now, what am I thinking?

So we left them in the laundry, in the dryer, and hope like hell they are open in the morning in time for us to catch our ferry. They are supposed to be open by 7am....but who know, they should of stayed open until midnight tonight and they didn't. Might be clothes shopping in Dover tomorrow?